UKC Forums (http://forums.ukcdogs.com/index.php)
- UKC Coonhounds (http://forums.ukcdogs.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=4)
-- Fixing range in older hounds? (http://forums.ukcdogs.com/showthread.php?threadid=928552152)

Fixing range in older hounds?

I have a very nice 2 year old x breed that is very smart, accurate, fast, trees good, great mouth, good nose, good winder, etc. He’s my first hound and I got very lucky – he’s about all you can ask for in the abilities department. His only real fault is he does not cast out, which is the result of “overtraining” on my part. I had him on a long line as a puppy and he lived in the house with me, so he has been programmed to stay close.

He started and taught himself to hunt by just taking him on walks at night without being hunted with any other dogs. Despite being hunted alone so much, he is very social and will go off with other dogs if they cast out (not just as a cheerleader either, he mostly strikes and trees first). Any opinions on whether or not he can be reprogrammed to hunt deeper? My thought was maybe I need an older dog that casts out, and then hunt him for a season with that dog to reform his hunting range habits.

Any thoughts are welcome! I’d really like to figure something out because his range (50-150yds) is preventing him from catching near the number of coon’s he should be with his ability level. I’ve hunted him alongside top notch dogs and he’s rarely outshined, with the exception of his range.

First thing to do is never walk hunt him again. Ever, under any circumstances.

Get a dog that leaves hard and leave it in the box.

Turn your dog loose, go back to the truck. The minute your dog dog comes back and stands by you, tell it no, tie it back, get the other dog out of the box, and send it. Let yours watch it go. When the other dog gets treed, throw yours back in the box and go to it.

Rinse, and repeat.

__________________
YouTube.com/@canestreammedia
www.joydogfood.com
Fueled by Joy Podcast

Sell him to me. I love to walk hunt a dog.

quote:

---

Originally posted by Josh Michaelis
First thing to do is never walk hunt him again. Ever, under any circumstances.

Get a dog that leaves hard and leave it in the box.

Turn your dog loose, go back to the truck. The minute your dog dog comes back and stands by you, tell it no, tie it back, get the other dog out of the box, and send it. Let yours watch it go. When the other dog gets treed, throw yours back in the box and go to it.

Rinse, and repeat.

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by Melblank
Sell him to me. I love to walk hunt a dog.

---

Good Luck!

Like many over things with hounds, hunt or search as some refer to it, is primarily genetic. I’ve had hounds for 44 years and “search” or hunt cannot be instilled in a dog if it isn’t there in the dogs genetic predisposition for the most part.

That being said what do you do when you hunt the dog? If you’re constantly on the move most hounds I’ve had are more apt to check in more frequently. If you’ve got country where you can sit for awhile and let the dog hunt out and he has the genetics to do so he’ll quickly catch on.

Perhaps the best coonhound I ever owned was a close hunting hound. It had its advantages. Fortunately she was a very cold nosed dog that could move a cold track well most nights, get it up into a running race and get accurately treed. I enjoyed the walking most of the time and it was good for me health wise.

__________________
Dan

quote:

---

Originally posted by DL NH
Good Luck!

Like many over things with hounds, hunt or search as some refer to it, is primarily genetic. I’ve had hounds for 44 years and “search” or hunt cannot be instilled in a dog if it isn’t there in the dogs genetic predisposition for the most part.

That being said what do you do when you hunt the dog? If you’re constantly on the move most hounds I’ve had are more apt to check in more frequently. If you’ve got country where you can sit for awhile and let the dog hunt out and he has the genetics to do so he’ll quickly catch on.

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by jm7296
Ok, I see what you’re getting at. My thought was the other dog would take my dog and show him that there’s coons for the taking if he just goes to find them. What you’re saying is that when he comes back I let the other dog out to show my dog there was a coon there, but you didn’t find it, and therefore, you don’t get in on the action..

---

__________________
YouTube.com/@canestreammedia
www.joydogfood.com
Fueled by Joy Podcast

Don’t hunt the dog for a week…

Lead dog to a good spot preferably open woods…unleash dog and cast him…find a nice place to sit and wait on the dog to check in…if the dog doesn’t cast out wait about 30 minutes…if he doesn’t hunt leash him and put him up and try again in a few days…do not give the dog any positive attention if he isn’t casting out…

__________________
Training dogs is not so much about quantity, it's more about timing, and the right situations...After that it's up to the dog....A hunting dog is born...

I'd try what's been suggested. But if those methods don't work bring a lawn chair, and a switch. Turn him loose and when he comes back to you don't let him stand, sit, or lay down next to you. Force him to get away from you. Eventually he'll go hunting from being bored from hunting a spot out long enough. Another option is you cast him from 20 yards off the road and sit in the truck. But the same rule applies for when he comes back to you. Dont let him hang around you. He thinks this is the way he should hunt and the way you want him too. If you hunt him another dog the chances are he'll do exactly what he does now, dependent upon another dog to take him hunting.

__________________
Eric DePue
Hill Country Kennels Itty-Bitty
PKC CH Wax's Late Night Boom
And
Partners on a few common trashy young dogs

Gone but not forgotten

GrNtCh, PKC Ch Hillbilly Bildo
Pr Broken Oaks Wild Blue Gypsy