UKC Forums - What is the standard depth for concrete

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Posted by chester cooner on 08-24-2010 07:05 PM:

What is the standard depth for concrete

trying to determine how much I will need for my kennel. 32x12x?

thanks
Rick

Posted by Todd Miller on 08-24-2010 07:11 PM:

4" 3000 lbs mix with fibeglass in it.

Posted by Travis L Wilkison on 08-24-2010 07:11 PM:

4 inches

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Posted by Travis L Wilkison on 08-24-2010 07:15 PM:

if you give them the dimensions they should figure your yardage for ya but you might want to check with them cause most places around here wont deliver unless you get at least 3 yards. your prolly only gonna need 5 yds maybe a little more. Im not sure i didn't do the math.

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Posted by pigsit on 08-24-2010 07:24 PM:

If your diminsions are 4"X12'X32' you are going to need a bit more than five (5) yards. A yard pours about eighty square feet, and you have 384 square feet, thats almost five yards and a bit more for waste. I hope there is someone on here that deals with this on a regular basis; I'm just a neophite. Tom

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Posted by jabrown on 08-24-2010 07:24 PM:

you have a 31x12 pen. You want to pour it 4 inches thick. One yard of concrete poured at 4 inches thick = 80 square feet roughly. So 31x12=372. 372/80=4.65. So it would be safe to order 5 yards of concrete for your project.

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Posted by jabrown on 08-24-2010 07:27 PM:

Sorry read it wrong. 32x12 you will need just under 5 yards(4.8) so unless you do an imaculate grade job you might want to order 5.5yards just to be safe.

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Posted by Brian-BleedzRed on 08-24-2010 07:45 PM:

Figure concrete = WxLxD/27

So a 12'x32'x .33" thick would= 4.6933333 yds

12x32=384x.33=126.72 divided by 27=4.6933333

You gona use a 2x4 to form with its only 3 1/2" so dont worry about adding to yardage as long as ya grade it out good you'll be fine.

Posted by PlottChaser on 08-24-2010 07:51 PM:

I figure and pour concrete every day. And yep 5 yds is what you want. But I'm gonna disagree with one post above about using fiberglass (no offense Todd). I never use fiberglass on a kennel floor because a long time ago when we first started using it I learned that the fiberglass can harbor bacteria which is a bad idea for a kennel floor for obvious reasons. Instead use reinforcing wire mesh.

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Posted by chester cooner on 08-24-2010 07:53 PM:

concrete

What is an average cost/yd for the fiberglass reinforced? You guys are ont he stick today!!!! Wouldn't it also be wise to spread a base of say crusher run down prior to pouring?

Posted by Todd Miller on 08-24-2010 08:10 PM:

Re: concrete

quote:
Originally posted by chester cooner
What is an average cost/yd for the fiberglass reinforced? You guys are ont he stick today!!!! Wouldn't it also be wise to spread a base of say crusher run down prior to pouring?

This is good idea, just order 5 to be sure, have someplace to poor the extra.

Posted by thebigcat454545 on 08-24-2010 08:26 PM:

i always buy 1/4 yd more then i need. you figure concrete
length x width divided by 80. i used fibermesh for my kennels, didnt know about the bacteria fiber would have or hold. i keep my kennels clean, i figure its still better then dirt or gravel. if i was to redo i would consider using rebar because of the bacteria issue, fiber has held up real well. I would put a semi smooth/hand trowel finish on it, it wont be to slick for the dogs plus everything washes down nice. broom finish everything sticks to it and its hard to get real clean. i would also put a sealer on it every other yr.

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Posted by chris baker on 08-24-2010 11:31 PM:

Wouldn't the ends of the fiberglass get in the dogs feet? I know most of them will be trowled flat but surly some will be at or in the surface of the slab. I'd go with the rebar or wire mesh instead of the fiberglass.

Posted by PlottChaser on 08-24-2010 11:35 PM:

quote:
Originally posted by chris baker
Wouldn't the ends of the fiberglass get in the dogs feet? I know most of them will be trowled flat but surly some will be at or in the surface of the slab. I'd go with the rebar or wire mesh instead of the fiberglass.

Yeah that would be another concern of mine too. Concrete with fiberglass in it often looks "fuzzy" at least until it gets worn down some and I know it's not good for people to go barefoot on so I wonder if the fibers might stick in the dogs pads and cause problems too?

Posted by rmcmillan on 08-25-2010 12:17 AM:

I AGREE ABOUT THE FIBERGLASS. AND MAKE SURE YOU USE REBAR FOR STRENGTH. GET THE EPOXY COATED. IT WILL HELP KEEP CONCRETE FROM SPALLING UP. WATER GOES INTO SMALLER CRACKS AND STARTS EXPOSED REBAR TO RUSTING WHICH WILL EXPAND AND BREAK CONCRETE. I SEE THIS EVERYDAY INSPECTING BRIDGES.

PS THANKS FOR THE MATH CLASSES ON FIGURING CONCRETE NEEDED.

IS FOUR INCHES THICK ENOUGH?

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Posted by Paints-n-cows on 08-25-2010 12:42 AM:

Concrete here in central Illinois is running about $90/yard.

I also would put wire in the mix. You don't have to use anything fancy like rewire...you can use anything that will hold it together...chainlink fence, cattle panels, woven wire.

There are only two things guaranteed about concrete...it will get hard and it will crack.

And make sure that you pour it wet. It will make the guy(s) finishing it a lot happier. Trust me, I know....nothing like dry mix to make the day just a little bit more miserable.

Posted by Floyd leopards on 08-25-2010 12:57 AM:

@ 4 '' it will take 4.74 yds ,fiber costs about $5.00 a yd ,here 3000 psi is $105.00 a yd .

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Posted by Todd Miller on 08-25-2010 01:53 AM:

The ends of the fiber are gone right away, I ve used it forever never had a problem, besides dogs feet are a lot tougher than that. I always saw cut 10 x 10 sections or 5 x 10 sections 2/3 through the cement and you can save the cost of re-bar. Make sure you use 3000 or 3500 lbs mix and no cracks.

Posted by honalieh on 08-25-2010 04:01 AM:

quote:
Originally posted by Todd Miller
The ends of the fiber are gone right away, I ve used it forever never had a problem, besides dogs feet are a lot tougher than that. I always saw cut 10 x 10 sections or 5 x 10 sections 2/3 through the cement and you can save the cost of re-bar. Make sure you use 3000 or 3500 lbs mix and no cracks.

Good Advice. Concrete will expand and contract slightly due to temperature changes. The above advice basically allows for slight expansion and controlled crackage.

You should also allow for a slight grade for water runoff.

Here's how I calculate Cubic Yards :

At 4" Thick : (5 Cubic Yards)
(1) 12' x 32' = 384 Square Ft.
(2) 384 Sq. Ft. x 4"/12" = 128 Cubic Ft.
(3) 128 Cubic Ft. /27 Cubic Ft. per Cubic Yard = 4.74 Cubic Yards

At 5 1/2" Thick : (7 Cubic Yards)
(1) 12' x 32' = 384 Square Ft.
(2) 384 Sq. Ft. x 5.5"/12" = 176 Cubic Ft.
(3) 176 Cubic Ft./27 Cubic Ft. per Cubic Yard = 6.52 Cubic Yards

I use 5 1/2" because that's the width of the 2 x 6's that I'd frame with, and it allows for some variance in grading, and still gets me the 4-6" thickness.

Posted by K.Hanses on 08-25-2010 04:14 AM:

Make sure to pack a good base under it too...

Even if it's just Washed sand, hell, probably bank run sand will work.

I prefer either crushed concrete or 2NS washed sand for a base. Compacted of course.

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Posted by Okie Dawg on 08-25-2010 04:30 AM:

I make mine 3". It is thick enough for dog runs and a 2"x4" is about 1 3/4" x 2x3/4" so you can use 2"x4" forms with kickers and stakes to hold them in place. That leaves you room to add a little sand and in Okla. if you don't have some good sized rebar in it you will get cracks in it. Most use the fiberglass mixed in the mud these days but I like the wire. The rebar is to keep it from cracking and the wire is to keep it from seperateing if it does crack.
I allso like as smooth of finish as I can get. You can keep it cleaner easier and the cleaner the healthier for the dogs. It is like the kitchen floor. It is slick but they have no problem when they get use to it. It's been a long time since I poored much but I think a yard spread 3" thick covers 108 sq. ft.

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Posted by PlottChaser on 08-25-2010 10:49 AM:

quote:
Originally posted by Paints-n-cows

There are only two things guaranteed about concrete...it will get hard and it will crack.

Yep, I tell people this all the time. Anyone who says they can keep concrete from cracking is full of it! We just cut control joints in it and hope it cracks in them. But its only for appearance sake. In my kennel pad which is only 14'x10' I didn't cut control joints. I figured I'd rather have a hairline crack in it that caught nothing than an 1/8" cut in it that filled up with dog crap cause I was more worried about the functionality than the appearance of it. It has not cracked at all but it's also about 6-1/2" thick. 4" is enough I just tend to overkill stuff.

And, as someone said before, a good solid packed subgrade is as important as anything to keep cracking to a minimum. If the ground underneath of it settles, the concrete will crack and try to seperate. If not, it won't.

Posted by PlottChaser on 08-25-2010 10:51 AM:

Hey Okie a 2x4 measures 1-1/2"x 3-1/2". At least around here they do...LOL!

Posted by on 08-25-2010 01:03 PM:

LxWxT divided by 27 is how you figure cubic yards

12 x 32 x .33 (4 inches)= 115.2 divided by 27 = 4.69 yards

12 x 32 x .25 (3 inches) = 96 divided by 27 = 3.5 yards

You could probably get by with 4 yards if you went 3 inches deep is most of the center area and stayed 4 inches deep around the edges. This should be plenty for your dogs but actually depends on the pens you are putting on the slab.

Posted by Todd Miller on 08-25-2010 04:35 PM:

Cut 2/3 thru and your chances are it will be controlled, but I saw cut 10 x 10 sections and it has worked her in michigan and got to be one of the worst places to have cement. With al the frost !! I have a 100 x 48 pole barn 5" thick, 4000 lbs, and 10 x 10 saw cut sections 2/3 cut thru and we park Short Doubles on it and so far its cracked in the saw cuts and it has been there for 10 years.

Another good thing is to go by is preperation of what your pouring on, Good solid surface that won't wash away from under the cement after its poured.

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